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85 Points

Friday, March 24, 2023 - A blend Grenache (60%), Mourvèdre (20%) and Syrah (15%); the remaining 5% rounded out by a combination of Cinsault, Counoise, Muscardin and Vaccarèse. The fruit gets fully destemmed before the spontaneous fermentation. Aged in old, neutral oak foudres up to 18 months, depending on the vintage. Bottled unfiltered. 14,5% alcohol.

Luminous, translucent and relatively pale brownish-red color. The nose feels old, somewhat oxidative and a bit funky with aromas of smoke, tobacco and bretty funk, some oxidative notes of beef jerky, a little bit of nutty rancio, light pungent aldehydic notes, a hint of dried figs, a rustic touch of horse stables and a whiff of balsamic VA. The wine feels evolved, juicy and somewhat oxidative on the palate with a full body and slightly sweet-toned tertiary flavors of beef jerky and salty soy sauce, some raisiny tones, a little bit of aldehydic rancio, light bretty notes of leathery funk and barnyard, sweet fruity hints of soft strawberries and dried figs and a touch of licorice root. The medium acidity and gently grippy medium-minus tannins bring some firmness to the mouthfeel, but not much. The finish is rich, sweet-toned and somewhat oxidative with gently grippy tannins and moderately long flavors of raisiny dark fruit, some tangy notes of rancio, a little bit of bretty barnyard, light sweet notes of prunes and dried dates, a hint of leathery funk and a touch of meaty umami.

This was a still somewhat enjoyable vintage of Clos des Papes but there's no around the fact that this vintage is already getting past its peak. The fruit department is not only getting tired and oxidative, but also a bit too dull and sweet with all the raisiny and pruney flavors that take a toll on the overall drinkability. I did enjoy the somewhat funky brett character that added a nice little touch of rustic complexity to the wine - I think the wine might've been more straightforward and less interesting without the funky overtones. All in all, this challenging vintage managed to offer some enjoyment, but I feel the wine must've been in a better shape some 5-10 years ago. No point in aging this wine any further - now it is high time to drink up any remaining bottles.

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