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Wednesday, February 28, 2024 - Antoine Jobard/Hudelot-Noëllat Dinner at La Paulée de Los Angeles (Kato, Los Angeles): Deeper yellow with an orange tinge but very healthy. Wow, one hardly expects the freshness and vibrancy that this shows in the mouth. Long and layered yet not overdone and extremely elegant. Like all of these Charmes, hard to detect a trace of oak, and even at 30+ years of age, none of the nuttiness that Meursaults can have. Poised mellow roundness but it still has great energy and a lively lemony finish. It also grew beautifully in the glass over 90 minutes. The oldest wine I will taste at this year’s Paulée and really a fantastic bottle. It makes me appreciate the wines of the prior generation even, calling to mind how lean and tart they could be early on.

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