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94 Points

Wednesday, September 23, 2009 - Surprisingly dark colour for Clos des Papes, but not incredibly deep. Fades gently to a paler rim with a touch of garnet. My first sniff said "woodsy", but after a while this came into focus as clearly and incredibly balsamic (in the best sense). Later it became more complex with notes of raisin, licquorice, very ripe gummy stems, spice and always with a suggestion of latent heat and power. Perhaps roasted is the nearest I can get. In some respects this is a mature bouquet, as there is nothing remaining of fresh fruits and yet something suggests more evolution is likely. On the palate this is similarly powerful and sui generis. Entry is big and quickly broadens into perhaps plum-like fruit. The weight of alcohol and extract shows itself quickly and the texture is almost viscous throughout. The roasted, balsamic and spicy flavours are reflected in the palate. I also noted a distinct note of salinity, something which added to the melange and makes the wine quite distinctive. Surprisingly the tannins are sophisticated and fine (I've had plenty of '03s which are problematic in this respect) and are easily absorbed within the wine. The finish is long and quite warm, but I do not note the telltale alcoholic 'sting in the tail' of many other '03s. Certainly this is approachable now and in many ways has evolved rather rapidly. But I do sense that this wine has a future, provided the heat remains under control as the fruit recedes. A wonderful and true expression of the vintage. It was bakingly hot that year even by the standards of the region.

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