2004 Melville Pinot Noir High Density

Community Tasting Note

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Friday, March 9, 2012 - Popped and poured. Medium-plus maroon ruby, hazy with a touch of bricking. Intense aromas initially showing more on the tertiary side, with complex notes of decomposing foliage, cigar box, orange zest, crushed cloves, five-spice powder, and notes of clay. 90 minutes later, the fruit peeks through and the nose evolves to show spicy raspberry/kirsch, subtle cherry, sandalwood, and a persistent, herbaceous green streak. Medium-plus body with moderate to moderate-plus acidity. Expansive flavors on the palate aren't lacking in subtlety, and the fruit profile shows as somewhat paradoxically both green and ripe...think crushed raspberries, blood orange, and dried strawberry notes paired with fresh, "sweet" green beans and tomato stems. Interesting for a Pinot in that notes of tobacco are, similar to the nose, again apparent on the palate along with a veritable cacophony of spices and a faint impression of minerals. The tannins are still somewhat astringent and chunky on the soaring, seemingly endless close, one which is accentuated by both a touch of heat and notes of fruit throughout.
There is nothing easy about this wine. And for that very reason it is eminently compelling, even when forced to question the inherent contradictions it presents...perhaps this is wine as if made in a metaphorically "modern primitive" style?

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