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96 Points

Saturday, December 15, 2012 - End of the World Dinner (Nicolas Restaurant, Teck Lim Street, Singapore): Truly awesome. This was as good, if not even better than a wonderful bottle of 1989 La Landonne I had last year, which was to date the greatest Syrah I had ever tasted. While not quite as ready as the softer, rounder La Mouline earlier in the flight, or even the lively, energetic La Turque, this was still my favourite of the three 1990 Lalas. It had the meatiest character of the three wines, with its 100% Syrah character showing in a deep, compelling nose of dusty earth, roasted beef and subtle shades of plums, black cherries and berries, all seasoned with a twist of herbs and a hint of dried flowers. Still a bit tight, a bit primary, but boy was it a nice nose. The palate was really youthful as well. Like the nose, it was still a bit primary, still tightly coiled, with black tea and herb notes wrapped around a core of black cherries and black cherries, only slowly opening up to show a real sense of power and quite majestic depth. Remarkably though, for the weight and depth the wine carried, it always remained supple, muscular, almost lithe, with a lovely structure of velvety tannins and fine acidity running through its reservoir of black fruited flavours, which in turn played against a backdrop of dried earth and roasted meat, with touches of herb and spice on the midpalate. Wonderful stuff. This had the greatest depth and power of the three wines, and the longest ending too, pulling away in a long, effortlessly intense finish that filled every part of the backpalate with meaty goodness. A great, great wine – it shares the same monolithic depth and solidity of the very best young Musignies or Pauillacs, but also the nobility and elegance that only its greatest brethren from Burgundy and Bordeaux display. I was floored by this. Superb on the night, but give this 10 years, and it will be amazing.

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