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95 Points

Sunday, October 4, 2015 - Gaja Charity Dinner & Tasting for HealthServe (Taberna, Bukit Merah): En Magnum. This was absolutely superb, putting another really quite good magnum of 1990 VC Cave Privee completely in the shade. It had a lovely nose, with whiffs of burnt corn and butter, bread and yeast, all floating around subtle strawberry notes. Really attractive, but it was actually on the palate that the wine really wowed me. One sip, and this just whacks you with wonder, with layer after layer of flavours fanning out like a peacock's tail in the mouth - toast and butter, white fruit and red apple, and an edge of strawberry notes, all riding on a juicy, lemony spine. Fabulous stuff, and in a magnum, this was really beginning to hit its stride. On one hand, it was just on the cusp of a full, gorgeous maturity, with a lovely sense of integration and roundness to it; yet on the other, it still had a fine, gentle mousse and beautiful acidity that lent it a youthful, energetic edge as it blossomed through the midpalate and into a long finish littered with juicy fruit and nuances of flowers and spice. Wonderful. It constantly amazes me how Dom Perignon can produce hundreds of thousands of bottles each year and yet still create real gems like these. This was as good Champagne as I had all year.

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