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95 Points

Wednesday, February 1, 2017 - 11% alcohol, 180 g/l residual sugar. The wine gets its bubbles via Charmat method.

Quite deep coppery-orange color. The nose is ridiculously rich and complex with aromas of maple syrup, rose hip soup, molasses, some dried cherries, a little bit of leather and a hint of redcurrant juice. Overall the nose feels surprisingly dark-toned for a wine made from a white variety. The wine is sweet, full-bodied and quite unctuous on the palate - yet still showing surprising freshness and elegance, thanks to its high acidity and very gentle, soft prickle of CO2. There are rich flavors of syrupy molasses, rose hip soup, some sappy herbal tones, a little bit of resinous character, a hint of stewed plums and a touch of leather. The quite sticky finish feels less sweet and more savory with very persistent and complex flavors of maple syrup, pronounced herbal amaro bitterness, a little bit of leather, light pruney tones and a hint of strawberry jam.

This is a wonderfully developed, complex and distinctive dessert wine still retaining a hint of CO2 prickle even at the age of almost 14 years. Very lovely and delicious, its subtle prickle and high acidity nicely offsetting the weighty feel of the body and some of the residual sugar sweetness. I really see no further aging potential, so better to drink up now or soon. Highly recommended.

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