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84 Points

Friday, August 22, 2008 - Here in the UK we do not get to see much Washington State wine so when I saw this bottle on a wine list of a very nice hotel restaurant I jumped at the chance to try - even although it had a big ticket price of £60 (US$110). The sommelier was helpful in explaining the wine and compared its blend to a Right Bank Bordeaux, given that it is 48% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Petit Verdot. What the sommelier failed to mention, however, is the stonking ABV of 14.8%! I know alcohol levels are rising as producers push for that big, bold fruitiness much beloved by the Parker acolytes but, I ask you, 14.8%?

Consequently, as someone not used to such high levels of ABV, petroleum and kerosene overpowered any other aroma. In fact, the last time I had such an experience was when, suffering from a bad bout of 'man flu', I put a towel over my head and inhaled the steam emanating from a bowl of "albas oil" infused boiling water. It wasn't helped by the fact that the wine was only decanted 5 minutes before we sat down for dinner and didn't have time to sigh, let alone breathe.

My wife and I sipped slowly, hoping the wine would soften and release something other than alcohol and, to be fair, it did open enough to give us a hint of the exceptional wine I am sure lurks somewhere behind the cloak of ethanol. When it did let down its guard, it showed smoothness and a cocktail of blackberries, cherries and a hint of mint.

This is a lesson learned for my part; wines as big as this need patience before they will perform at their sparkling best and restaurants do not allow the time for this to happen. That said, 14.8%!? Wow!

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