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91 Points

Tuesday, October 8, 2019 - Very pretty wine, extremely transparent both literally and figuratively. Dominated by stemmy, sharp character on nose with shy red fruit poking out, barely-ripe strawberries/mulberries, red licorice, maybe some flowers, rubber, overall very subtle. Palate is pink lemonade; zero tannin, intense acidity (some volatile acidity? not sure how to identify this yet), with a suggestion of strawberry. Clearly very naturally made and super in-style these days, and better with a more-than-usual chill to tame the acid, although it makes the aromatics even more non-existent.

This kind of stuff is difficult for me to assess. On one hand, it's very tasty on the surface, with endless "drinkability", and stakes a clear claim on the "pure" and effervescent natural wine front, not remotely close to anything produced differently. Would be very popular with people who seek this style already, and I don't knock people's preferences.

On the other hand- is this really worth something close to $30? I understand that in the context of "good" wine by good producers, this isn't considered extremely high, but- in my taste, this has zero complexity, depth, or even real "flavor" compared to most other reds at that price, including other low ABV, low-intervention examples - my wife said she'd be just as satisfied with fruit juice, and I can see why. The veneration of "drinkability" in wine, especially natural wine, might be going too far for me.

NOTE: when I tried this over two years ago I was a lot less into this style of wine. I remember thinking it was overpriced and still might, but I'd like to try this again.

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