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93 Points

Saturday, December 7, 2019 - A Riesling from the VDP.Grosse Lage Scharzhofberg in Wiltingen and, according to the back label, this is a GG Riesling. Tasted in the Van Volxem 2015 tasting. 12% alcohol.

Intense and very youthful pale yellow-green color. Brooding and somewhat restrained nose with youthful aromas of beeswax, some lemon marmalade, light notes of powdered salmiac, a little bit of apple juice, a hint of sandy soil and a floral touch of white flowers. The wine is ripe, medium-bodied and rather linear with clean and very mineral-driven taste of stony minerality, lemony citrus fruits, some apple peel, light chalky bitter notes, a little bit of tangy salinity, a hint of crunchy white fruit and a slightest touch of savory old wood. Quite high in acidity, but less so than Van Volxem Volz 2015 that was tasted alongside. Although the wine feels pretty young, it isn't primary anymore. The finish is long, clean and quite acid-driven with a rather mineral aftertaste of lemony citrus fruits, tangy salinity, some tart green apples, a little bit of pithy grapefruit, light chalky tones, a hint of wet stones and a touch of apple peel bitterness.

An impressive, chiseled and mineral GG Riesling that feels very youthful but not at all primary. Shows laser-like focus and good sense of ripeness, but flavor-wise is rather shy and mainly about minerality in all its forms without much fruit to counterpoint the mineral tones. Overall the wine feels like it is more about aging potential than immediate enjoyment; it really requires a lot more age to bring out the nuance and complexity that is hidden underneath the cold, hard shell of Scharzhofberger minerality. I'd let the wine wait for another 10-15 years, since it really feels like it is built for the long haul. Expect the score to go up with age. Good value at 26,90€.

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