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95 Points

Thursday, December 10, 2020 - At first pass, the 2016 Dubreuil-Fontaine exhibits a decidedly attenuated and tempered conveyance of lightly spiced cranberry and black and red cherry flavors. It first fools its host into the belief that youthful linearity and pensive austerity are all that stand to unfurl with its current juvenescence. But with slight seducing and swirling, one is quickly gifted with a marked turn of foot by way of an intriguing mosaic of earth, orange peel, tea, and curious offerings of crispy-skinned turkey and jerky notes that not only add remarkable complexity, but smartly provide a subtle salinity that makes for keen persistence through the finish.

A very convincing Corton, with its convivial higher register red-fruited tang and sapidity cavorting stylishly with the citrus, game, and earthier berry notes. The Grand Cru intensity affirms its status in a more composed modality, but there is a building reverberation of flavor that provides sophisticated continuity. There is much to love here, and with some short-term cellaring, it is destined to be a wine that most impresses for its beguiling and distinct flavor-execution evolution. It is certainly well on its way to becoming an even more exquisite example of the varietal and its given terroir with a bit more age in bottle.

Tasted side-by-side with the 2016 Dubreuil-Fontaine 1er Epenots, the Clos du Roi distinctly displays more intricacy and mid-palate prowess than its Epenots stablemate. Though the Epenots is a fine example in its own right, the difference in cru is measurable.

94-95+ points for the captivating Clos du Roi, with considerable upside in a few years. It's also worth noting that the tariff on this Corton is a banging deal in the $75 range. Highly recommended.

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