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93 Points

Wednesday, October 13, 2021 - From 75cl, perfect cork, decanted 1 hour, improved until final drop 2 hours later. Serious dark colour. Gorgeous, brooding, rich, dark berry fruit, oak and vanilla scent; mercurial layered palate, layer upon layer of huge, muscular, dreamy ripe—but tingling with acidity—damson fruit, creamy-textured glycerine (not as unctuous as a comparably fine Ribera del Duero, but luxuriant for a Rioja Alta) and sea salt(!); long, resonant finish. Superb now, and surely for at least a decade to come. Tonight, this seems an ideal compromise between the brash tannic excesses of over-extracted new wave Rioja and the sometimes mousy-mouldy-fungal over-American-oaked traditional style of Lopez de Heredia. 93P

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