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91 Points

Tuesday, October 19, 2021 - 13% alcohol. Tasted in Barbi Brunello 2010-1968 vertical.

Evolved, moderately translucent maple syrup color with a deep reddish core. Fine-tuned and somewhat sweetish nose with aromas of raisins, some dried dates, light smoky notes of tar, a little bit of charred game and slightly animale funk, a hint of wild strawberry and a touch of blood. The wine feels ripe, silky and slightly sweet-toned on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and quite mature flavors of wizened sour cherries and ripe strawberries, some gamey tones, a little bit of raisiny dark fruit, light stony mineral tones, an oxidative hint of beef jerky and a touch of smoke. The overall feel is quite structured, more thanks to the high acidity than to the ample but quite resolved and silky tannins that contribute more to the texture. The finish is savory, somewhat grippy yet not tough or aggressive and quite lengthy with flavors of tart cranberries and sour cherry bitterness, some stony mineral tones, a little bit of old, cracking leather, light smoky notes of tar, a hint of tobacco and a touch of meat consommé.

An evolved, tertiary and nuanced Brunello at its plateau of maturity. The wine feels fully mature, but it also shows quite a bit of depth and substance with still vibrant fruit that has not yet completely faded away. Some people seemed to find the smokier notes a bit disagreeable, but in my books this wine was in a terrific spot right now, showing great sense of balance between its fruit, body and more tertiary flavors. Most likely the wine has been peaking for many years now, probably even for a decade, and it won't stay this good for much longer, but I doubt the wine will fall apart just yet. Drink now or in the near future.

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