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93 Points

Monday, December 27, 2021 - Christmas Day 2021. Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru made from Chardonnay sourced from an old Avize vineyard which was planted in 1959. Zero dosage. Disgorged March 2016. Brassy deep gold colour. No sign of oxidation. Appropriately evolved for its age. A bouquet of fine citrus, yellow and green apples, poached pears, wet granite, baking spices and a touch of yeasty autolysis. Elegant and refined on palate. Direct, persistent acidity. Mineral with lovely flow and a satiny mouthfeel. About mid weight. Some 2009 ripe fruit richness balances out the acids and the absence of sugar. I chose the 2009 rather than a 2008 or 2012 Vénus because – being from an “other”, not a great, vintage – I thought it might be more open and approachable, as it was. I did that last time I opened a 2009 Vénus (I see from my last note, below). Both times I have underrated what Agrapart did in 2009 with the Vénus. If not perhaps a great Champagne, it’s a very fine one, for those like me who like the higher acid, low dosage Agrapart house style. I doubt it’ll make really old bones but expect it’ll drink well until 2025, easily.

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