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90 Points

Thursday, July 14, 2022 - Full gold. Waxy, lanolin, a touch of honey and. Stones minerality. Broad, very broad but also very smooth, but with a weight and heft that makes its presence felt. Served cool there’s a line here, but not enough to get away from the vintage, and yet despite the heft the 15% abv isn’t obvious in any sense of heat. As it warms there’s more nuance and sufficient interest but that broad brick wall obscures any real acidity, line or more importantly, energy. In some ways this is a product of the vintage, and in some ways it transcends it. Savour a glass but possibly not a bottle. ***1/2

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