1990 Gaja Barolo Sperss

Community Tasting Note

wrote:

Thursday, November 5, 2015 - Miscellaneous Notes from Italy (mostly Champagne and Nebbiolo); 10/31/2015-11/6/2015 (Piemonte and Milano): Purchased today from a Milan wine shop without any knowledge of provenance or storage. Light ruby core, browning edge; this deepened with air. Slightly musty at first, some VA, then increasing mint. Medium weight. Deep brown tobacco notes and a core of stony minerality are eventually joined by cherry fruit and earth. Moderate tannins remain. We had a chance to follow this for around 3 hours, and it continued to improve over that time, so I am confident that this was a healthy bottle, and it certainly has time in hand. I'd call it close to outstanding overall but hardly profound or as ethereal as a 25 year old wine can be. The contrast with the 2004 Sori San Lorenzo we had the other night was striking. This seemed like a much more natural, less forced and extreme expression of Nebbiolo. Was the wood treatment that different, or have the additional 14 years in bottle cured the excesses I found in the younger wine?

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