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90 Points

Thursday, January 5, 2023 - Disgorged in 2012 so I knew it was pushing the limits on a NV Champagne. Probably based on 2009 with healthy doses of 2008 and 2007 reserve wines. 50/50 Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Cork showed some drying and there was a less than enthusiastic pop on its release - more like a sigh of relief. Color was deep gold; effervescence was clearly muted but bubbles were tiny and persistent. Nose of dried apples, nuts, and some definite oxidative notes. Flavors were similar but also had some hints of tangerine and something like oyster liquor. The texture was fairly broad but balanced and nicely lifted by the bubbles. I liked it far more than anyone else but my aged palate has more sympathy for the senescence of wines that had a rambunctious childhood.

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