1993 Gaja Barolo Sperss

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Saturday, September 8, 2018 - Gajas at Tre Galli, Torino (Ristorante Tre Galli, Turin, Italy): Popped and poured but it could have used an earlier decant. Impenetrable dark colour. Also black fruited and deep on bouquet, showing dark cherries, blackberries, tar, peaty black soil and liquorice aromas, with a little umami, soy development. In the mouth, deep, powerful and concentrated. It seemed to become more, not less, structured with time in the glass. At 26 years of age, drinking fairly young and primary. A meaty texture with those dark berries and tar and sandy tannins. Quite tannic with fierce acidity. Bone dry and savoury, with truffle, porcini and umami complexity. Detailed and layered. It was a sensational food match with both my Angolotti and Fasone Rump with Ash dishes. Clearly the better wine than the Barbaresco. Great now but this Sperss has years ahead of it.

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