wrote:

94 Points

Thursday, March 30, 2017 - 2004 Burgundy Grand Cru Dinner (Holland Park): Not up there with Mugnier's very best examples from Musigny, but this was nevertheless an absolutely lovely wine, and drinking wonderfully at the moment as well. The nose did feel slightly green and herby, more so than many of the other 2004s on show, but this was wrapped up in a full, generous bouquet of blueberries ringed with a beautiful perfume of lovely florals and whiffs of smokiness. It was such a powerful bouquet that I though the greener inflections added interest, rather than distracted from the whole. It was beautiful on the palate too - very Musigny in character I thought, absolutely complete and full, and wonderfully inetgrated, so that it felt like many complex notes - blueberries and spice and meat and earth - all wrapped up and melded into one solid beam of flavour that filled the mouth right from the attack and all the way into a super-long finish. In true Mugnier fashion though, this was always a wine of purity and grace in spite of its great depth and generosity, with a wonderful clarity glowing through its fruit expression. Tannins were soft and silky, but the wine was carried nicely by the fine acidity of the vinatge. Like the nose, there was a just a touch of something green here - capsicum I thought - but it was more or a subtle highlight around the egdes of the palate that reminded you of that this was from 2004, rather than a real distraction. All in all, a beautiful wine, drinking wonderfully now.

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