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Monday, May 6, 2013 - „One Wine - Three Vintages“-Blind Tasting. Flight 4: Sangiovese. We tasted Vasco Sassetti Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1997, Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Fontalloro 1997 and Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Fontalloro 2007. This flight was a bit difficult to figure out blind and led to some discussion at first as the second wine of the flight, the 2007 Fontalloro, offered a dominating eucalyptus note on the nose. The tell-tale tea, tobacco and red fruit notes paired with the tannin/acidity-structure of wines one and three paved the way for solving the mystery.

Next to the eucalyptus-dominated nose, the 2007 Fontalloro showed red fruit, vanilla and roasted notes on the palate, paired with medium-plus tannin and acidity. It seemed a little closed and I would hence allow it a year or two in the cellar. The 1997 Fontalloro, which threw a lot of sediment, seemed a hair green on the nose. It offered red fruit, tea, tobacco and a hint of chocolate on the palate.

The Vasco Sassetti Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1997 was the most interesting and clearly my favourite wine of the flight. As for its nose, the tasters either loved it or hated it, no grey area, as it was jammy and, in particular, a little oxidized, the result of aging in large oak casks for almost five years. One might argue about the nose, granted, but on the palate the wine was absolutely lovely, dry, with blood orange, cherry, tea and tobacco, high ripe tannin, medium-plus acidity and tremendous balance. Old school. A great wine. I would buy a case if I could find one.

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