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92 Points

Thursday, July 14, 2022 - Tasted blind.

Evolved, translucent pomegranate red color with a pale orange-yellow rim. Evolved, meaty and somewhat tertiary nose with aromas of wizened dark forest fruits and pencil shavings almost reminiscent of old Bordeaux, some meaty notes, a little bit of old leather, light raisiny tones, a sweeter hint of cranberry sauce, a touch of lingonberry and a whiff of autumnal forest. The wine is dry, quite evolved and somewhat tertiary on the palate with flavors of tart lingonberries and cranberries, leather, some developed raisiny tones, a little bit of earth, light woody notes of pencil shavings, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a touch of meat stew. The acidity feels quite high, keeping the wine effortlessly in balance and lending it with good sense of structure, whereas the rather resolved medium tannins bring some nice firmness to the silky mouthfeel. The finish is lively, somewhat grippy and very long with a complex, evolved aftertaste of tart lingonberries and cranberries, some wizened sour cherry tones, a little bit of earth, light raisiny tones, a hint of beef jerky and a woody touch of pencil shavings.

At first many people thought the wine was an old Bordeaux - and I can see why, as the wine nose felt very Bordelais with its complex aromas of wizened dark berries and pencil shavings. However, on the palate the wine didn't seem particularly Bordeaux, but instead something lighter and more delicate. Quite quickly people started guessing Pinot Noir and older Burgundy was one of the first suggestions. However, the guesses ranged from mid-00's to early 90's - nobody ventured into the 1980's! The wine felt quite evolved, yet it was older than people anticipated! I'd say this was not as nuanced and vibrant as the bottle we tasted in 2019 was, but it was still surprisingly alive and full of character. Not really a grand vin but a thoroughly enjoyable example of aged Burgundy all the same. A bargain at 39€.

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