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95 Points

Tuesday, October 29, 2019 - Tasted double blind. Intriguing color, somewhat opaque crimson with orange hues. Bouquet of all things cherry, strikingly so: cherry pie, candy, cough drops, cough syrup, potpourri, etc., with rhubarb, mint, and wintergreen undertones, and wafting hints of rose oils and orange marmalade. The bouquet strongly suggested Italy, possibly Barbaresco, based on the bouquet's prettiness), but the deep color, and paucity of roses and absence of tar notes told otherwise. Massive cherry on the attack to early middle, along with sweetened acerola, blood orange, and sweet herbs in complex layers. The wine also imparted an impression of warmth, indeed, sexy warmth, as in the early stages of an evening that sees lovers sitting on furs, surrounded by pillows, in front of a lit, wood burning fire place. Then, from the middle back, powerful tannins (powdery, gritty, and grainy), the sheer volume of which I have seen described as 'soul-destroying', although given my appreciation for (balanced) tannin, I conceptually disagree. Still...WOW!!!...that is a lot of tannin!!! The atypical dark color and unique bouquet aside, the tannin wall removed all doubt...called it 2009 Riserva Barbaresco.

The wine also sports medium plus acid, which along with the tannin and the wine's deep substance, point to a long maturation curve. Likely to peak after 2035-2038.

Among the most unique 2009 Barbarescos that I have tasted, perhaps only rivaled by Vietti's Masseria, and reminiscent of Massolino's same vintage Barolo Parafada. Recommend holding bottles for seven to ten years. 94-95.

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