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93 Points

Wednesday, January 29, 2014 - Pale golden yellow color. Remarkably sharp and even tart nose with piercing, intense aromas of lemony citrus fruits, green aromatic herbs, some wet stones and a little bit of freshly sliced green apples. The wine is bone-dry, medium-bodied and very crisp on the palate with intese, piercing flavors of green apples, lemony citrus fruits and pronounced steely minerality, but underneath these bright, sharp tones there are complex nuances of ripe, honeyed sweetness, some yellow fruits and even something vaguely mushroomy. Furthermore, the wine is very bitter - almost quinine - and there even seems to be a light tug of tannins towards the finish. The wine is long, crisp and mouthwateringly racy with high acidity. There are mouthcleansing flavors of tart lemony fruit, steely minerality, some sweeter ripe citrus fruits, a little bit of exotic spice and a hint of ripe pineapple.

A ridiculously intense, sharp and youthful Grand Cru Riesling that is approachable for the most extreme acid heads, but I'd recommend to let the wine soften up for a few years, at least. The firm structure and the underlying complexity of the fruit promise much cellaring-wise, so there is definitely no need to hurry with this wine. Tremendous stuff that is slightly less ripe than the impressive 2009 I tasted a year earlier, but not any less spectacular. Stylistically this wine seems a bit more ripe and approachable than the forbiddingly tightly-wound Kreydenweiss Grand Cru Wiebelsberg 2010, but also - a bit paradoxically - more bitter and mineral in flavor. Expect this wine's score to go up once the wine ages a bit and starts to exhibit some tertiary characteristics. Highly recommended.

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