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95 Points

Friday, March 4, 2022 - 100% organically farmed Blaufränkisch from nine old (45 to 85 yo) parcels in the village of Neckenmarkt. Fermented spontaneously in oak fermentors, macerated with the skins for approximately three weeks. Aged in a combination of new (50%) and old (50%) 500-liter demi-muids for 6 months, then the best barrels are blended together and aged in exclusively old oak barrels for another 12 months. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 13,5% alcohol.

Almost fully opaque and slightly evolved blackish-red color with a mature maroon hue. Fragrant, characterful and subtly green-toned nose with seductive aromas of elderflower, some inky tones, a little bit of ripe boysenberry, light sappy notes of aromatic green herbs, a little bit of licorice root, a meaty hint of game, a floral touch of violets and a whiff of crushed dark forest fruits. No obvious oaky aromatics. Lovely! The wine feels clean, concentrated and fine-tuned on the palate with a medium body and intense, ever-so-slightly sauvage flavors of boysenberries, some elderberries, a little bit of meat stew with bay leaves, light aromatic notes of medicinal herbs along with a subtle streak of herbal bitterness, a floral hint of violets and a developed, gamey touch of meaty umami. Bright, high acidity and firm, balanced medium tannins. The finish is long and concentrated with some tannic grip and quite intense flavors of crunchy crowberries and brambly black raspberries, some aromatic notes of bay leaf and cooked herbs, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, light floral notes of violets, a hint of game and a touch of old leather.

An outstanding, harmonious Blaufränkisch with remarkable sense of balance and captivating depth of flavor. This wine captures the essence of Moric's winemaking so well: even though this wine is high up in the quality pyramid, this doesn't feel like it was any bigger, weightier or more ripe compared to the entry-level Moric Blaufränkisch wines. No, instead this shows greater sense of intensity and concentration, as if the aromatic substance and flavor intensity of two wines were simply crammed into one, not trying to have a wine with the weight and extraction of two in one. Furthermore, although almost invariably all the Moric wines show some wild, funky and sauvage elements, this is among the "cleanest" Moric wines I've wines I've tasted - there's that funky edge, but very much in the background, letting the purity of fruit remain firmly to the fore. An outstanding wine that is drinking remarkably well right now, but will keep for years more. Very highly recommended.

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