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92 Points

Monday, March 13, 2023 - 100% Montepulciano from organically farmed vineyards, all fruit fully destemmed. Fermented spontaneously and aged for two years in concrete tanks. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 13% alcohol. Bottle no. 9001.

Deep, dark and quite evolved pomegranate color that permits very little light through. The nose feels dry and spicy with complex, moderately evolved aromas of dried fruits and leathery funk, some raisiny tones, a little bit of licorice root, light lifted notes of ethery VA, a hint of cranberry sauce, a touch of dried red plums and a fine fragrant whiff of arrack. The wine feels dry, evolved and somewhat rustic on the palate with a rather full body and complex, savory flavors of leather and wizened black cherries, some licorice root tones, a little bit of cranberry sauce, light volatile notes of balsamico, an autumnal hint of damp leaves and a touch of meaty umami. The wine still retains good sense of structure with its high acidity and supple, slightly grippy medium tannins. The finish is evolved, savory and lengthy with a layered aftertaste of gamey meat and autumnal leaves, some leathery tones, a little bit of sweet black cherry, light licorice root tones, a hint of balsamic VA and a touch of brambly raspberry.

A fine, serious and somewhat burly vintage of Emidio Pepe that certainly shows its age, but hasn't started to fall apart yet. The overall feel is firm, wonderfully savory and so nuanced with good sense of tertiary complexity, evolved yet vibrant fruit tones and a touch of rusticity. I'd say the wine is on its plateau of maturity now. It has been there for quite some time already, and it will remain there for a good handful of years more. Fine and delicious stuff; better to drink sooner than later - even if the wine can keep, it really doesn't benefit from any further aging. This is as good as it is going to get.

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