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93 Points

Tuesday, January 17, 2017 - 2002 Burgundy 1er Cru Lunch (Fragrance Teochew Restaurant): One of a pair of very good 2002 Barthod 1er Crus. This was a Chambolle that packed quite a heavy punch. The nose was quite typical Barthod - with fragrant wafts of powdered wood spice, dried flowers and blue fruit, along with more savoury earth and meat tones. It was really rich on the palate, with an almost liquered tone to its blueberries and ripe dark cherry flavours, but all this still nicely balanced and structrued on a bed of fresh acidity and fine but firm tannins. A ripe and powerful wine, but still retaining a modicum of elegance in spite of that. There was plenty of depth on the midpalate and moving into the finish too, with the fruit taking on a higher-toned note, and a trail of powdered spice and slightly bittersweet herbs emerging on the backpalate. Unlike the Beaux-Bruns that followed, I thought the makers' style stood out more than the terroir on this wine, but this was the more impressive wine overall. A real punchy bottle, with plenty left in the tank. No harm drinking now, but I think this will soften and improve, taking on a bit more easy Chambolle charm over the next 4-5 years in the bottle and beyond.

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