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Sunday, August 1, 2021 - Restaurant purchase. Peter Jakob Kühn makes some really idiosyncratic Rieslings. This spent two years in a large wooden vat on the lees and allowed to go through malolactic completely.

The result is a dense, rich, and concentrated wine. Filled with peach and tropical fruit characters (pineapple and mango). On the palate while that concentration comes through, the structure still feels a bit rounded. There's a distinctive creaminess to it from extended lees contact and malo with a round and softer acid edge. Some petrol-filled smoky and salty finish. It felt like it was missing something, je se ne quoi.

Took the remaining 1/3 of the bottle back home and consumed the rest about an hour later from a Grasl Cru. The fruit appeared to recede a bit on the nose to make way for a captivating mix of sweet and delicate white aromatic flowers: mock orange, aztec pearl, osmanthus burkwoodii, but on the palate it felt much the same as before.

Aromatically, it's lovely, especially from the Grassl (what a difference the stem made), but on the palate it seems to fall short for my tastes. Clearly well made and with intention. There's concentration, complexity, depth, but I think the combination of richness from the lees and wooden vat and the rounder, softer acid feel from the malolactic makes this feel like a wine that speaks more to winemaking than a sense of place. AP 08 16

ABV: 13.0%
Closure: natural cork
Decant: 90min at restaurant // 3h in when tasted at home
Stem: non-descript white wine glass; later Grassl Cru
Assemblage: two years on lees in a large wooden vat, full malo.

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