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95 Points

Sunday, March 17, 2024 - A bit of tawny on the rim, but still a core of dark red at the core. Sweetness in the nose accompanied by oysters, a trademark of the house before the change in ownership. Then the sequence of herbs, above all thyme, asparagus. Then charred meat and roasted coffee, but not intense. Black olives to conclude. Mineral calcareous backbone. Still in excellent shape with acidity supporting the matter. Some time ago, in 2013 I had tried this wine and it has kept very well. Tasted side-by-side with Borgogno 1985 riserva in 2013 and today. I had written at the time "This was the freshest of all (borgogno vertical), very youthful, both in the color and on the palate. Very balanced, nice acidity awesome tannins. Drink now or keep longer. Interestingly, also the 1985 jaboulet hermitage was the best of the tasting with very similar characteristics." In sharp contrast, today the Borgogno is gone whereas the Jaboulet is in perfect conditions. So drink now, keep for a little longer. But this is a fantastic bottle, a time capsule that encapsulates foregone times, an old winemaking style and climate that is no longer.

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