1994 Barbacarlo Barbacarlo

Community Tasting Note

wrote:

92 Points

Wednesday, October 14, 2020 - A blend of Croatina, Uva Rara, Ughetta (Vespolina) and Barbera sourced from the Barbacarlo Cru, all the fruit harvested simultaneously when Croatina is ready. Made in a very hands-off fashion: made with organically farmed fruit, fermented spontaneously in old oak casks, no temperature control, no additions, bottled unfiltered in the spring following the harvest with a small dose of SO2. 12,6% alcohol, 0,3 g/l residual sugar, 5,5 g/l acidity, pH 3,5 and 35 mg/l total SO2. Tasted in a Lino Maga 2015-1979 vertical.

Deep, evolved and only somewhat translucent reddish-maroon color with a dark, syrupy core. Restrained and rather savory nose with fine-tuned and quite tertiary aromas of leather, some dry old fruit tones, a little bit of phenolic spice and light smoky tones, a hint of ripe black cherry and a touch of dried herbs. The wine is complex, quite tertiary and medium-bodied on the palate with tertiary flavors of sour cherry bitterness, some crunchy cranberry, a little bit of leathery funk, light sanguine notes of iron, a phenolic hint of smoke and a salty touch of soy sauce. The structure relies more on the quite high acidity than on the resolved, silky medium tannins. The harmonious finish is long, somewhat grippy and quite tertiary with savory flavors of gamey meat, some smoky tones, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, light bretty notes of old leather and a hint of crunchy cranberry.

A very developed, complex and enjoyably savory vintage of Barbacarlo at its peak. Shows the classic combination of rustic finesse, bright savory fruit and balanced structure typical of the best Lino Maga wines. Most likely won't benefit from further aging, but will keep for many more years. Drink or keep. Recommended.

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