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89 Points

Friday, April 16, 2021 - The wine is produced only in good enough years with fruit from a subplot in the Ravera Cru planted exclusively to Nebbiolo Rosè - which has turned out to be not a clone of Nebbiolo, but actually an offspring of Nebbiolo, i.e. a distinct variety altogether. This is one of the very few Barolo wines - if not the only one - made exclusively from Nebbiolo Rosè. Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel, followed by a month of post-fermentative skin maceration using the submerged cap method. Aged for three years in old 5000-liter Slavonian oak botti, then for 2 years in bottles. 15% alcohol. Double decanted, enjoyed over 2.5 hours.

Dark, slightly translucent black cherry color with a deep, subtly evolved brick-red hue. Quite expressive and heady nose with aromas of particularly typical of Nebbiolo: notes of sweet cassis, juicy dark plums and some wizened figs, followed by notes of old leather, light fragrant nuances of exotic spices, a hint of tar and a touch of roasted meat. I had heard Nebbiolo Rosè was supposed to have a very floral nose, but while quite fragrant, the aromas here reminded me more of Bordeaux or Cabernet-driven Bordeaux blends rather than Barolo The wine is ripe, moderately full-bodied and slightly warm on the palate, but not particularly weighty or extracted in any way. Slightly sweet-toned flavors of wizened blackcurrants, licorice and dried figs, some sour cherry bitterness, a little bit of exotic spice, light strawberry tones, a hint of tar and a touch of subtly bitter cacao nibs. Although the wine shows a good deal of ripeness, it also sports terrific freshness with its bright, high acidity - which stands in stark contrast to the description of Nebbiolo Rosè being a variety lower in acidity than Nebbiolo. The tannins feel sparse - less ample and powdery than feels typical for a Barolo - but also somewhat coarse with quite a bit of grip and grit to them. The finish is ripe, quite warm and quite grippy with a long aftertaste of ripe cassis, sour cherries, some meaty umami, a little bit of sweet plummy fruit, light licorice tones, savory hints of old leather, pepper and exotic spices and a sweeter touch of soft strawberry.

A somewhat weird experience for a Barolo. I knew this was going to be Nebbiolo Rosè and not Nebbiolo, but the wine was still quite distinctively unlike what I've grown to associate with a Barolo - the wine seemed to lack many typical qualities of a Nebbiolo, and with its somewhat blackcurrant-ish fruit character it reminded me at times more of a Bordeaux blend than a Barolo. Despite this atypical nature, this was unquestionably a great, balanced wine that was drinking really nicely at the moment and is probably going to improve for another 10 years or so. Nevertheless, this might not really be what I'd expect from a Barolo of this price point; at 71,90€ I feel the wine is simply a bit too pricey for its quality.

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