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88 Points

Monday, January 1, 2018 - I gave a previous bottle a 90, but this one settles more in the 88-89 range. I may have been taken in by the novelty of the varietal / region (as we don't see much Cesanese / Lazio in Ontario), but the first bottle showcased intriguing complexity, including notes of dark berries, meat, black pepper, and, in a nod to southern Italian reds, strong minerality, specifically iron. Inky and butter, it was food-friendly and familiar, yet also new and refreshing. This second bottle, in contrast, is just a bit too rough, a bit too lacking in complexity, for a 90, and the nose is a bit too buttery, the fruit a bit too ripe and baked. (And, thinking back, maybe the first one was too.) But, for all that, it's still really good, an intriguing find from Lazio, a grape, rooted in antiquity, well off the beaten path.

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