wrote:

Monday, July 12, 2021 - A broader-shouldered performance from last year, this bottle pushes red apple flesh, cherry water, bruised lemon, and salt rock flavors with a bit more might and flex. The front end is full but quickly narrows its attack like a wide river constricting its path into narrow rapids. Finishes honed but slightly severe, with a autolytic yeasty bite that tugs at the tail and leaves a lingering bitterness on the palate, heightening a sense of rusticity.

With air in the glass, the delivery becomes smoother and more expansive, with its sharp pinch rounding-out into a less folksy profile. This has good upfront flavor appeal and is a notable representation of the varietal, but will likely always lack a little finesse. Hold another couple of years.

The 2013 version presents as more refined and cleaner, sans the astringent back end found on the 2012.

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