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91 Points

Thursday, December 21, 2023 - This drink is from a bottle opened 42 hours ago. Just maybe it was a predictable miss in the midst of those Champagnes and Riesling, but it tastes great now. Aeration and proper context raised it several points. NOSE: spirited blackberry perfume; supported by iron, earth; teased with elusive botanicals that oscillate with cinnamon, kelp, menthol, and steel. MOUTH: compacted, striated sources of flavor produce abundantly and with energy. Blackberry and blueberry stains; fallen plums. There's a mannered balance of dusty black tannins, bright berry acidity, and busy ripe fruit. By the very end of the bottle the fruit begins to clot. I might not come looking here for profundity. But it belts out pleasure and muscular authenticity. If 3 bottles remain, I might expect to drink another within a year, and the last one by 2026.

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