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89 Points

Thursday, January 10, 2019 - A biodynamic Champagne from Aube, supposedly based on vintage 2014. A blend of Pinot Noir (80%) and Pinot Blanc (20%). Vinified in stainless steel. Total production approx. 1000 bottles. 12% alcohol, 3 g/l dosage. Tasted blind.

Neutral whitish-green color. Somewhat stuffy and slightly reductive nose with aromas of tart green apples, some yeasty autolysis, a little bit of sappy greenness, light pithy notes of lemon, a weird, dry hint of sawdust and a touch of Hubba-Bubba. The wine is ripe, steely and linear on the palate with medium body and bright flavors of chalky minerality, some ripe mealy apples, a little bit of crunchy white fruit, a hint of wet stones and a herbal touch of chamomile. The mousse feels light and smooth, but also very persistent. The finish is lively, crisp and medium-long with grapefruit-driven citrus fruits, some chalky bitterness, a little bit of tart green apple, light leesy yeast tones and a hint of steely minerality.

A nice, pure and refreshing but also somewhat linear and straightforward Champagne. The wine is surprisingly Chardonnay in style, since it doesn't show any of the typical weight, richness or oxidative tones typical of Pinot Noir and even the more exotic, peachy Pinot Blanc notes are relatively underplayed - although the do show once you know where to look. All in all, a fresh and crunchy Aube Champagne that probably will be very appreciated by the fans of steely, mineral Blanc de Blancs Champagnes; I, on the other hand, found the wine a bit one-dimensional, sappy and neutral. Perhaps a tad pricey at 45€.

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