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94 Points

Friday, April 2, 2021 - 100% organic Cabernet Franc from the Várerdö vineyard located in the comune of Nagytótfalu. 13,64% alcohol, 1 g/l residual sugar and 5,6 g/l acidity.

Very dark, only slightly translucent blackish-red color. Savory, somewhat wild and subtly reductive nose that feels somewhat closed and slightly skunky at first, but opens up quickly and turns quite attractive with aromas of fresh blueberries and blackcurrants, some notes of sous-bois and damp coniferous forest, a little bit of meaty character, light woody notes of pencil shavings, slightly funky notes of leather and something slightly animale and an understated, lifted touch of sweet VA. The wine is rich and full-bodied yet dry and savory on the palate with pleasantly open-knit texture. Vibrant flavors of fresh blackcurrants, some old leather and bretty notes phenolic spice, light earthy tones, a little bit of crunchy crowberry, autumnal hints of leafy tones and a touch of savory wood spice. The overall feel is enjoyably firm and quite structured, thanks to the rather high acidity and enjoyably ample and moderately grippy yet not aggressive tannins. The finish is long, dry and rather grippy with savory flavors of blackcurrants and tart lingonberries, some savory leafy tones, a little bit of old leather, light bretty notes of smoky phenolic spice, a hint of fresh bell pepper and a ferrous touch of blood.

A dry, structure-driven and dead-serious Cabernet Franc that reminds me of good old-school Bordeaux which doesn't try to emphasize richness or ripeness, but instead firm structure and pure, fresh fruit. This is definitely not a crowdpleaser, but neither is it a tough and forbidding old-world wine. The wine is very approachable, although with its structure it is definitely more a food wine than a pleasant sipper. At 7½ years of age the wine doesn't feel youthful, nor particularly evolved - perhaps it is in its early years of middle age. I can imagine this will continue to improve years more, perhaps even decades. An excellent wine that is going to make beautiful old bones. Hummel never seems to fail. Highly recommended.

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