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92 Points

Saturday, November 5, 2022 - Typically a blend of Pinot Noir (75%) and Gamay (25%) from a 0,75-hectare plot near Morey-Saint-Denis. 12,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.

Youthful, moderately translucent dark red color. The nose feels youthful, borderline primary with vibrant aromas of sweet red forest fruits, ripe blackberries and black raspberries, some black cherry tones, a little bit of strawberry candy and a hint of cherry juice. The wine is lively, crunchy and youthful on the palate with a medium body and juicy, almost primary flavors of black cherries and brambly black raspberries, some ripe cranberry tones, a little bit of herby spice, light gravelly mineral tones, a hint of boysenberry and a touch of earth. Lovely high acidity and silky, gently grippy medium tannins. The finish is clean, lively and fruit-forward with a rather long aftertaste of ripe dark berries, some brambly notes of raspberries, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light tart notes of cranberries and a hint of fresh red plum.

A very nice, fresh and eminently drinkable Passetoutgrains. The minor Gamay component feels disproportionately impactful, considering how the blend is very Pinot-heavy, yet the wine has a definite Cru Beaujolais feel to it. However, the wine retains wonderful sense of freshness, finesse and elegance for its ripeness - I guess no Beaujolais Gamay would be this fresh and crunchy if it were this ripe, and I must admit that I can't remember if I've had any 2017 Beaujolais wines that have been this bright and lively! All in all this is a fantastic little wine in the sense that it is not particularly serious and more about fruit-driven freshness, yet it is wonderfully great at that. At the moment the wine is still a bit too primary, retaining some sweet and slightly candied fermentation character, but I suppose all those will disappear with a few extra years in a cellar. If one needs some Gamay loveliness from 2017, I'd rather go with this wine than most (if any) 2017 Beaujolais wines!

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