wrote:

77 Points

Saturday, July 18, 2020 - Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts, aged in egg-shaped concrete tanks. Bottled under a Vinolok glass stopper. 12% alcohol. Tasted half blind.

Pale yellow-green color with deeper lemon-yellow overtones. Upon opening quite clean and fruity nose, but opens up rather quickly into something more funky and natty with aromas of ethery volatile acidity, some waxy funk, a little bit of aldehydic green apple slice character and a hint of honeyed richness. The wine is wild, medium-bodied and quite delicate on the palate with flavors of tart green apples, some saline mineral tones, a little bit of hay, light aldehydic notes of sorrel and a slightly rough hint of acetic VA. There seems to be a sesame seed-like touch of something grainy suggesting that the aftertaste is going to be mousy. The acidity feels quite high, lending a balanced feel to the wine. The finish is crisp, tangy and quite saline with quite long flavors of lemony citrus fruits, some tart green apples, a little bit of hay and, finally, a good deal of mousiness. At first the unclean THP character is a mere suggestion, but after 10-15 seconds of swallowing the wine, the nutty, kernel-y and bready flavors of mousiness emerge like a wave, overwhelming all the fresh and crunchy qualities of the aftertaste.

Ugh. A disappointment. Without the mousiness, this could've been a quite nice and fresh little Alpine white. Without the mousiness and the elevated levels of acetic VA this would've been a very lovely effort. However, it turned to be a somewhat generic natural wine where the natty qualities overwhelmed most of the varietal color and any sense of place. Feels overpriced for the quality at 26€.

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  • Comment posted by Wall’d:

    8/19/2022 12:16:00 PM - Had my firat bottle years ago, was fantastic. But my second today matched your description perfectly. Sadly.

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