wrote:

96 Points

Friday, June 15, 2018 - Bruno Giacosa Tribute Dinner (Casa Tartufo, Singapore): Talk about ending with a bang. This was Wow! One of a pair of 1990 red labels, this was a very diferent wine from the Babaresco Riserva Santo Stefano, yet it was every bit as beguiling. The nose deeper, maybe more savoury, with a hint of sous bois around its earthy, loamy aromas, and then a nice meatiness backing up higher-toned notes of dark berries and black cherries, tar and rose petals. Beautiful. The palate was breathtaking. Like the Santo Stefano, there was a wonderfully pure clarity to it, with a real sense of finesse and definition underlying its powerful black cherry, peppery spice and herby menthol flavours. On the midpalate, savoury notes of meat and truffles emerged, then tar and earth and mineral pulling away into a super-long, powerful finish, still showing a chew of teeth-coating tannins at the very end. If anything, there was a more naked sense of power, depth and structure to this wine than on the Barbaresco, so that it came across more meaty and muscular, yet with an elegant nobility to it - the regal king to the Santa Stefano’s queen if you will. Amazing. A really complete wine, very enjoyable even now, but clearly with decades still ahead of it. If my impressions are correct, this will probably need even more time than the Santa Stefano.

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