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Friday, July 23, 2021 - The Laible Am Buhl GG doesn't make it to the US very often, so we had to source out of Germany. Having only come into the country a few months ago, it's possible this could be a little worse for travel over the pond, but we decided to do an early check-in anyway, before sending the rest of the case to sleep. Decanted and immediately poured first glass into Zalto Universal stems. Saved the second half of the bottle for after dinner.

Intense nose, exactly as you'd expect from a young Laible - citrusy mineral limey, a bit linear right now, as many 2018s are, but great acidity and superb concentration. Wow, clicks into another deeper and broader gear right before the finish, then coyly turns in another direction. A little flip of the skirt, if you will. There’s a little soapy quality, too, like some gins get – not meant in a pejorative way. A little like Riesling liquor right now. With air after dinner, much more open for businesses, but still holding back for sure. The air turned it very floral, with a bit of honeyed apricot at the end. A handsome, elegant wine, with great aromatics right now and GG pedigree. We had an '13 Laible Klingelberger as well this night and, though that wine is excellent and showed well, this made it seem muddled in comparison.

Despite the skirt metaphor, this is a bruiser right now, and it’s tough to tell what kind of clarity it will have ultimately. Some GGs, even some good ones, never quite get to that clarity of purpose that a Keller generally does. Some don't ever get out of that tightly wound concentration. They are still good, but they keep from getting to the next level. Will be interested to see where this goes, as the potential showed itself very clearly. We'll wait at least a year before opening another.

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