2018 Alice et Olivier De Moor Bourgogne-Chitry
Community Tasting Note
Putnam Weekley Likes this wine:
Saturday, April 13, 2024 - EYE^ Perfect clarity to look at. This is one increment lighter in color than a Chablis 2018 Bel Air et Clardy immediately preceding it.
NOSE^ The smell is a suggestively savage instrument. I gather a brew of almonds and roots, roiled with mint and twine. Cinnamon/chili; mussels; steaming southern biscuits; gravel.
MOUTH^ The first liquid drink is confrontational. Properly vitigenic and searing acidity triggers a saline response. Muscular white fruit of pristine clarity reverberates fossil bone structure. The event aims deliberately toward a finish of bitterly appetizing vegetal scar—iodine, marble grit, mentholated lemon smash. It's big, yet grippy and austere in texture.
TIME^ Development: clarity and sweetness gather as the bottle yields. The bouquet digs its heels in, to offer blanched resins, birch bark, greengage, and Champagne.
STANCE (Cressbeckler style)^ I opened this bottle, vintage 2018, in 2024, well before it obtained its most accomplished expression. The wildness it exemplified four years ago is *almost* modulated enough now to appeal to an unmotivated, broad-minded, and discriminating observer. Naive bliss, stomping baby goat energy: 92-100. Appointed manners and precision: 90. Weighted avg. 91.
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Comment posted by Putnam Weekley:
4/14/2024 5:38:00 AM - ________
GNOSIS^ I value the reports on this site that find something here much less appealing than what I did. Beyond hand-waving appeals to bottle variation, it's worth noting this wine exemplifies certain vengeful, environmental risks in its preservation, risks that might not allow it to survive even brief periods of handling stress. The natural question follows: why put up with a wine like that? My answer: the risks of preservation underwrite all taste. Taste and preservation mean nothing without fragility. (See "contained risk.")
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^ In my country, a despised and valuable thing can be described as "that shÿt (don't grow on) trees." That's what I hear when you say "Chitry." I can't help it!
^ Which is strange, because the appellation of Chitry is a low-tariff opportunity for the discovery of remarkable quality. It practically DOES grow on trees. Selection is crucial here.
^ I vaguely remember drinking 2018 De Moor Chitry back in 2020. It was still fermenting; I liked it; another guy wanted to stamp it out of existence. We remain friends, afaik, lol.