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92 Points

Wednesday, September 6, 2017 - $24/750 ml at Village Corner, Ann Arbor; 19.5 pabv, Vintus, Pleasantville, NY. Originally opened about 9.26 by removing long cork (I'd forgotten my Coravin)

Very early 0.5 mm fading in the LeTaster, with the rest of the color dense. At halfway through the bottle over some days open no evidence yet of crust. Sweet smoky bacon fat, floral, anise or horehound, touch of pine resin and vanillin, touch of male cosmetic scent, underlain by a little juicy plum at 10 days out. Originally the plum predominating with little else, showing this needs decanting at this time or opening a day or two before. Licorice, bitter orange, sweet/tart/fruit/tannin in balance, a little heat to my irritated mucous membranes but not to yours most likely. Medium to long finish confirms all this. Tannin to me accumulates as I sip it, so maybe much of it is originally fruit-bound. Drink 2018-2029. Much more drinkable than the 2008, I understand, and buttressed by my earlier tasting notes on that vintage. Longevity a guess, but may be exceeded.

Basis for score: a flawless (excellent) wine with comparable aditional organoleptic or sensory qualities for current or near term drinking and batting out of its league quality wise. Highly recommended when compared even with other traditional LBVs at this point in my experience. Style is like a more elegant and complex Warres Traditinal LBV of which I'm a fan of in selected vintages, such as the 1982 and 2003 but offering more at this stage of development for enjoyment. Also scores high for AOC and estate typicity.

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