Sunday, October 17, 2021 - NOSE: restrained, refined, deeply luxuriant. Subterranean cure. A kettle of peppered berry pulp. Spices and chocolate. Candied ginger. Slate butter. MOUTH: there’s an immediate contrast of fine weave and impulsive expression. The texture is broad and black with oil. Sweet, over-ripe berries, fresh with pointed acidity. Pepper, certainly. And a massive wave-front of impeccable tannins. There is an opportunity here for childlike, playful joy in excavating sheets of mineral strata. Each layer yields scented comic book pages of new flavor and insight. Glorious. Serious. 97 points.
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