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88 Points

Thursday, March 17, 2022 - From my experience, Mastroberardino is a benchmark producer of benchmark wines in Campania, a producer of authentic expressions of both red and white local varietals. This Aglianico, the key red varietal grown in Irpinia, a region directly east of Naples and south of Sannio, is no exception. At this youthful stage, however, it clearly needs more time. Even by the second day, after significant aeration, it hasn't come together. The tannins are still quite firm and bitter (dominating the finish), the acidity still quite sharp (dominating the palate), and the combination overwhelms the rest, even though the rest suggests quality and authenticity with notes of dark berries, dried fruit / pot pourri, brown spice, earth, and minerals, all quite dense and rough but still very much in line with Aglianico. These notes are apparent on the really nice nose, along with a buttery quality, but they disperse pretty much right away on the palate. So what is it? There's a lot of potential here, clearly, but that means 88 at this point, with upside to 90, still a benchmark wine but not there yet, and with hope and assumption that such a lofty level is attainable, maybe in 2-3 years, maybe as many as five.

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