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86 Points

Monday, November 15, 2021 - Unlike Chappaz's other wines, this is not labeled as "Grain X", just Pinot Gris Nature. This is a Pinot Gris from Saillon, macerated with the skins for some weeks and vinified without any added SO2. 13,8% alcohol.

Deep, dark and very hazy coppery color. Robust, spicy and quite savory nose with aromas of stewed rose hips, some peppery spice, a little bit of leathery funk and a hint of acetic VA. This smells really unlike any other Chappaz wine. It is dry, angular and quite sauvage on the palate with a medium body and somewhat robust flavors of bretty funk, some bruised apple, light tangy saline notes, a little bit of phenolic spice and a mild acetic hint of VA. The overall impression is rather funky and quite smooth in texture, thanks to the medium-to-moderately high acidity and no perceptible tannins. The finish is long, dry and funky with flavors of bruised apple, tangy salinity, some chopped nuts, a little bit of stony minerality, light robust notes of savory spices and a hint of acetic VA.

A very robust, wild and funky skin-contact white that feels unlike any other wine in the Chappaz range. This is in no way a poor orange wine, but the overall feel is a bit too robust and sauvage for my taste - especially considering how pure and vibrant Chappaz wines normally are. This is an interesting experiment, but it feels the wine might require a few more iterations before it reaches the level one can expect from a Chappaz wine.

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