1979 Château La Mission Haut-Brion

Community Tasting Note

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92 Points

Wednesday, September 19, 2018 - Brought my last bottle of the 1979 to our biweekly wine group dinners at Two Chefs; previous one opened at our dinner in 2010.

Not sure how much life it had left, I decided to decant shortly before going to dinner. When I removed the capsule, the top of the cork looked solid with no sign of seepage . But when I started to pull it with an ah-so, it began to come out in pieces, which I double-screened out along with some sediment. The nose was slightly muted and the color had a brownish, earthy look, but a quick taste reassured me it was drinkable, albeit a nondescript Bordeaux at that moment.

A different -- and better -- story at the restaurant, and this is what I love about collecting and drinking fine wines. After starting with two excellent champagnes (Vilmart Cuvee Rubis rose and J Vineyards) and four whites (including two top-notch grand cru Alsatians, a white Bordeaux and a 2009 Mount Eden chard many of us mistook for a Corton Charlemagne in our double blind format), I finally poured the 79 La Mission with the first of the two red-wine courses.

The nose was now more complex with the lovely scents of tobacco and cedar, and the wine had gained some weight and depth and was no longer nondescript. It was medium bodied and earthy and smoky on the palate with some fruit still discernible.

I was pleased how well it showed, and it served a great kickoff for the three younger, bigger reds that followed - 1997 Ch. Margaux, 1995 Phelps insignia and 2008 Viader proprietary blend. While all the champagnes, whites and reds were terrific, the WOTN for me was the closer - 1996 d'Yquem, thanks to Bob Muraro, who also brought the Margaux.

Thanks too to owner-chef Jan Jorgensen and Chef Oscar Pajares, who cooked for us last night. For years, they have been creating special off-the-menu feasts (two courses for whites, two for reds) just for our group. Always great wines, great food, great times.

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