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88 Points

Thursday, December 7, 2023 - Pale yellow/gold color. Nose is effusive, fresh borderline tropical fruit, pineapple, ripe apple, honeydew melon-it's a fruit salad without holding much back, and were it not for a bit of acidic tension I'd call it almost over the top.

On the palate it's overtly rich and struggles to maintain balance given the palpable residual sugar, but once you adjust to the idea that it's nearly demi-sec, it's once again rescued by the acidity and a bit of stone toward the reasonably dry, long finish, marked by touch of sweet oak.

Whether this is climate change in action or a deliberate attempt to emulate a New World style I can't say. I imagine it would be a hit at a party. My wife, whose idea of wine perfection is the most buttery Russian River chardonnay imaginable and considers minerality the devil's own work, said she liked it. I rest my case.

Post script. Something was nagging me all day about this wine so I decided to consult the 3 wise 'M's" of Burgundy (Meadows, Morris, Martin). None of them said anything about the sweetness I detected. Fortunately, I had a half bottle left in the fridge, and serving it ice cold knocks the fruit back to a much more agreeable level for me. Maybe my barrel had a touch of Botrytis that didn't affect the majority of the production?

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