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93 Points

Tuesday, April 25, 2023 - Last week I opened up a trio of 2021 Kabinetts that just so happen to be some of my favorite bottlings, period. I wanted to not only see how they compared to each other, but also how they would each evolve over the following week.
The first wine that I am sharing is the 2021 Weiser-Künstler Enkircher Ellergrub Kabinett
After some initial Mosel funk on the nose, this really opened up to show itself as a hugely expressive and delicious young bottle. I was surprised by two things, one was how well this showed so early in its life as I feel that young wines from Weiser-Künstler are typically more reticent in their youth, and the second was how ‘large scale’ in the context of this group this wine felt. I definitely want to make clear that I am not saying this was a ‘large scale’ wine, it just was the biggest of these three. All three were racy and bright, but this was clearly a sign of seeing how the middle Mosel compares to a uniquely cool Mosel vineyard and finally one from the Saar.
This was bursting with super tangy apples and tons of herbaceous notes. Chalky minerality saturated the palate in the long and lemon filled finish.
After nearly a week, this wine seemed to find its focus with notes of sweet herbs, tangy orange and spicy ginger infused mineral water. There was an added level of freshness and purity that came with extended air time.
It was amazing how the perception of a wine can change depending on the setting, mood, or context within a tasting.
This is a beautiful wine, but I am in no rush to drink my other bottles.

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