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Sunday, September 23, 2018 - Ristorante Bovio with Luca (La Morra, Cuneo): Rusty red colour. A complex, poignant bouquet of dry clay, tobacco, preserved and dried red fruit, old leather, burnt toffee and lemon zest. On palate, I saw this Barolo as evolved, not tertiary, and appropriately oxidised, not oxidative. The tannins are now perfectly melded with the fruit and there is sufficient primary fruit, for me, to match the acids. Fresh and dried red berry fruit and plums. Earth, tar and tobacco leaf. Complex and layered and beautiful with both my duck dishes. However, mine was the minority view having the Vignolo as wine of the dinner, with others suggesting it was perhaps too advanced.

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