wrote:

95 Points

Saturday, April 20, 2024 - Grand Sichuan, Jersey City edition (Grand Sichuan, Grove St.): A dinner with Seth, Jay, and I - of course, Seth brought an old Catoir, and the only question was whether he'd bring a Riesling, Scheurebe, or Rieslaner. Ludicrous amounts of sweetness and richness; absurdly high acidity; somehow it all comes into balance and it works. I have no idea how, other than that Hans-Gunter Schwarz is a wizard. It's packed with ripe tropical fruit, those fiery spicy notes of Rieslaner (and the slight rough phenolic texture I usually associate with it), layers of botrytised honey and caramelly sweetness, and the whole package is just spectacular - intensely rich and sweet, yet feeling absolutely electric and shockingly light on its feet. A Cronenberg of a Rieslaner, and a goddamn delicious one.

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