wrote:

90 Points

Sunday, January 31, 2021 - Wow, first bottle of this since release 13 years ago. I think I waited too long for the second bottle to help me better understand where this is headed. This was showing a little reductive on first pop, but after an hour it all blew off. This smells like a fireplace a little bit, with some soil tones, tarragon and the seed of a berry plant (pomegranate? cranberry? something bright). I like the nose quite a bit and it feels expressive. Palate is very tight; grippy and gritty. There's some bitter tannins on the finish and it too is very wound up. Some blackberry flavors and herbs linger after a few moments... also blooming acidity on the finish. It seems very tight. The palate and finish seem very closed down right now. Normally when a young wine is expressive on the aromas but tight and non-expressive on the finish that means that it will age well and needs time. Does this one still need time? I can't tell... this has either faded or it's still hiding... which is it?? After more sips I really do think it's still too tight and needs more time. So, perhaps I'll wait a whole 5 years before the next bottle. Gilman, who usually has very long, generous windows on his wines (and I agree with him) has this closing out at 2025... that may not be long enough.

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